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TomClimber
New member
Hi All,
Looking for a little bit of advice if possible.
I have been training in rock climbing for a number of years, and have managed to develop myself to a reasonable high level. I have been considering recently the idea of supplementing my training to improve my performance, as I have reached a plateau over the past few years. I am looking for some advice as to what may be the best option for me, as the training done for elite level rock climbing, as well as the other requirements, is extremely specific.
I will say first off I am pretty well trained (5 days a week, sometimes double sessions). I do not compete in competitions where drugs testing would be an issue. Diet and nutrition is fairly sorted and I understand the concepts of periodization.
I am looking for something that will help me improve (most importantly) my overall strength and explosive power. I will explain what these terms relate to from a climbers perspective…..
In climbing terms, the concept of ‘’strength’’ would cover a few things:
1. Grip strength – the ability to hold on to small holds and hold them statically. This uses the muscles primarily located in the forearm, as well as tendon strength in the fingers.
2. Body strength – the ability to ‘’pull through’’ on a move. This would be improving one arm pull up strength and the ability to ‘’lock off’’ through that movement. Obviously this ivolves biceps and back.
In climbing terms, the concept of ‘’power’’ would cover:
1. The speed in which you can ‘’pull through’’ on these holds. i.e how quickly you can do that one arm pull up!! ( an example of this is on youtube. If you go there and type in ''michi geissler'' you will see the video. about 30secs into the video there is a drill we use in climbing to improve ‘’power’’ or fast twitch muscle fibres. See how quickly the guy ‘’pulls through’’ on the move. We also ladder up and down this rungs one after the other similarly to what he does on the way down. )
Okay, so this is what I am looking to improve. My current periodization looks like this:
5 weeks – Strength/Hypertrophy Training
Building strength in the fingers and forearm and pulling strength. Forearm hypertrophy.
3 Weeks – Explosive power
(described above)
3 Weeks – Power Endurance
Being able to perform powerful moves in succession for as long as possible. I guess this would be the equivilant of running the 800 metres. i.e 90% of maximum pace is required for as long as possible, rather than a flat out sprint the whole way!
So, to recap I am looking to improve strength and explosive power, aswell as tendon strength in the fingers and forearm and recovery time. One other thing is I am not looking for ANY unnecessary hypertrophy. Some sport specific hypertrophy is ok (forearms/back) but I am not looking for any unnecessary weight gain. If anything, something that helps cut abit of weight whilst improving these things would be an advantage. Keep weight DOWN is very important in climbing. If I do decide to supplement my training, it will be purely to improve my performance and not for any aesthetic reasons.
Okay so that’s everything. If anybody has any ideas about what would be best suited to see some gains I would be very grateful.
Thanks in Advance,
Kind Regards,
Tom
Looking for a little bit of advice if possible.
I have been training in rock climbing for a number of years, and have managed to develop myself to a reasonable high level. I have been considering recently the idea of supplementing my training to improve my performance, as I have reached a plateau over the past few years. I am looking for some advice as to what may be the best option for me, as the training done for elite level rock climbing, as well as the other requirements, is extremely specific.
I will say first off I am pretty well trained (5 days a week, sometimes double sessions). I do not compete in competitions where drugs testing would be an issue. Diet and nutrition is fairly sorted and I understand the concepts of periodization.
I am looking for something that will help me improve (most importantly) my overall strength and explosive power. I will explain what these terms relate to from a climbers perspective…..
In climbing terms, the concept of ‘’strength’’ would cover a few things:
1. Grip strength – the ability to hold on to small holds and hold them statically. This uses the muscles primarily located in the forearm, as well as tendon strength in the fingers.
2. Body strength – the ability to ‘’pull through’’ on a move. This would be improving one arm pull up strength and the ability to ‘’lock off’’ through that movement. Obviously this ivolves biceps and back.
In climbing terms, the concept of ‘’power’’ would cover:
1. The speed in which you can ‘’pull through’’ on these holds. i.e how quickly you can do that one arm pull up!! ( an example of this is on youtube. If you go there and type in ''michi geissler'' you will see the video. about 30secs into the video there is a drill we use in climbing to improve ‘’power’’ or fast twitch muscle fibres. See how quickly the guy ‘’pulls through’’ on the move. We also ladder up and down this rungs one after the other similarly to what he does on the way down. )
Okay, so this is what I am looking to improve. My current periodization looks like this:
5 weeks – Strength/Hypertrophy Training
Building strength in the fingers and forearm and pulling strength. Forearm hypertrophy.
3 Weeks – Explosive power
(described above)
3 Weeks – Power Endurance
Being able to perform powerful moves in succession for as long as possible. I guess this would be the equivilant of running the 800 metres. i.e 90% of maximum pace is required for as long as possible, rather than a flat out sprint the whole way!
So, to recap I am looking to improve strength and explosive power, aswell as tendon strength in the fingers and forearm and recovery time. One other thing is I am not looking for ANY unnecessary hypertrophy. Some sport specific hypertrophy is ok (forearms/back) but I am not looking for any unnecessary weight gain. If anything, something that helps cut abit of weight whilst improving these things would be an advantage. Keep weight DOWN is very important in climbing. If I do decide to supplement my training, it will be purely to improve my performance and not for any aesthetic reasons.
Okay so that’s everything. If anybody has any ideas about what would be best suited to see some gains I would be very grateful.
Thanks in Advance,
Kind Regards,
Tom
