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Dealing with dealerships..Do you haggle?

  • Thread starter Thread starter TerraNoble
  • Start date Start date
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TerraNoble

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Well it is time for my wife to return her lease back to the Chevrolet dealership and get another one or just go to another dealer.

I hate dealing and hagling with them!
They are so full of shit as I used to be in car business, 5 years ago, and I could not stand their practices,thus I left after 2 months.


What do you guys do when you go to a dealer to buy a new/used car?

I'd rather go the dentist and get a tooth pulled without anesthesia than to a dealer and play their stupid games!

If you have any one-to-one encounters, please share!
 
What could be worse than going to a car dealership?
Does this sound rhetorical?
 
I found it best,

To find the Exact Car you want, color, int. color, model, engine, etc.

Make sure it has only the options you want, none you dont.

It doesnt matter where it is or the cost, and steal the Window Sticker out of it, I dont think this is a crime.

Then make a photocopy, and take or fax it around to the dealerships that deal, and show them, This is what you want, and Tell them what you want to pay. This should be invoice price or less.

OR

Fly to ottowa, dont let them know your not local if you can, and buy it there, the exchange rate saves you like 5k in the end after taxes and emissions changes.
 
Easy. Pay what the car is WORTH. Sure you may get lucky and get a bargain, but what people don't understand is, no salesperson is gonna sell a car for waht they can probably get higher if they kept the car there for another month or so.


True in some cases. When I sold cars, it always had to do with a handfull of variables. How may we have like that. How much you get for trade. What time of the month it is. How many sold that day(especially on Sat.). How long we've had the vehicle. Repeat customer or not. Along with a few others. It always depends.
 
HANSEL said:
OR

Fly to ottowa, dont let them know your not local if you can, and buy it there, the exchange rate saves you like 5k in the end after taxes and emissions changes.

Canada.. here I come :rolleyes:
 
HANSEL said:
I got 3K below invoice from GM, And I wouldnt settle for any less in the future.

Must have been some car that they wanted to get rid off from the lot as it might have been too long there...

3k under invoice is unheard...What's the catch?
 
No catch, the Truck is Solid.
Wait till the end of the year, they will have GM incentives you dont even know about. GM has alot of trucks they are dying to move off the lot come August......
 
Use carsdirect.com
No slimmy salesman, his manager, the finance dick, etc.. you deal only with the Fleet manager, and you get what you want, walk-in, sign the paperwork, and you're out in about an hour with a minimal financial ass fucking. Pricing is real good too.
 
This is what i did when buying my vette and hum2... Got the price they payed for it, and wrote a check for $500 over. Slammed it on the desk.

They said no... I walked out... They called me 2 hours later and said bring the check back and you have a deal
 
corvettedudeman said:
This is what i did when buying my vette and hum2... Got the price they payed for it, and wrote a check for $500 over. Slammed it on the desk.

They said no... I walked out... They called me 2 hours later and said bring the check back and you have a deal


YOU SHOULD HAVE WRITTEN IT FOR 500$ UNDER THE PRICE YOU SAW ON THEIR INVOICE. THOSE INVOICES REALLY DONT MEAN SHIT.




KAYNE
 
I bought a new car last year for the first time(previous two car purchases had been used cars). I wouldn't say I'm an expert at it by any means, but I was pleased with how it turned out. Before going into the delearship, I got a copy of my credit report, printed off the invoice/retail pricing of the car I wanted along with the appropriate options, and printed off the blue book value of my car for trade in. I visited the dealership on a Sunday and browsed the cars they had on the lot so that I could find the color and options package I wanted without a salesman hassling me. I went into the dealership the next weekend with all of this information, found a salesman, and told him which car I was interested in. After a quick test drive, we went into his office. I told him that I was ready to buy the car from him that day if he could meet three requirements that I had. I pulled the printout of the invoice pricing for the car with the options it had and said I wanted to pay invoice for the car, then pulled out the blue book value pricing for my trade-in and said "you will give me this for my car," and then pulled out a printout of the current financing specials they were currently running(it was like 3.9% I think) for new cars. I told him that I'd write him a check for a substantial downpayment if these requirements were met. After a few trips back and forth to the sales manager, I got the car for invoice(something like $3K off the sticker price), got what I wanted for my trade-in, and got the financing deal I wanted. I was prepared to walk out at any time if one of those requirements wasn't met.
Be sure to go in there armed with invoice info, otherwise you're going to be working from the sticker price down, as opposed to from the invoice up.
 
:devil:
Has anyone ever heard of the term "tissue"?
It's supposed to be what the dealer pays for the car(below invoice)?
If you can get that info, you have even more bargaining power.


SSME, you did it right!
 
What the the term "holdback" reffer to?

Anyone familiar with the car-lingo?
 
Holdback refers to the amount of the vehicles MSRP that the manufacturer
fronts the dealer to cover the vehicle being unsold on the lot for the first 90 days or so.
It covers Insurance and such on the vehicle as it sits unsold.

The dealer hopes the car sells before the 90 days is up so he can
pocket the leftover holdback not spent on insuring the vehicle.
Vs: It sitting there on the lot after 90 days and he must then pick up the cost of the insurance.

If you go to edmunds.com, they explain holdback and also tell you what the holdback % is on each vehicle ranging from 2-4% of the MSRP.

If you know the vehicle has only been on the lot for a brief time,
you can figure the unspent holdback $'s into the dealers profit margin.
This is ONE way dealers can sell a car to people at near cost and still make money. By pocketing the holdback leftovers.
 
Y_Lifter said:
Holdback refers to the amount of the vehicles MSRP that the manufacturer
fronts the dealer to cover the vehicle being unsold on the lot for the first 90 days or so.
It covers Insurance and such on the vehicle as it sits unsold.

The dealer hopes the car sells before the 90 days is up so he can
pocket the leftover holdback not spent on insuring the vehicle.
Vs: It sitting there on the lot after 90 days and he must then pick up the cost of the insurance.

If you go to edmunds.com, they explain holdback and also tell you what the holdback % is on each vehicle ranging from 2-4% of the MSRP.

If you know the vehicle has only been on the lot for a brief time,
you can figure the unspent holdback $'s into the dealers profit margin.
This is ONE way dealers can sell a car to people at near cost and still make money. By pocketing the holdback leftovers.

So would you say that is in your advantage(buyer) to buy a car before the 90 days ?

If the dealer has 1%-3% holdback, that means you can get a better deal vs. no holdbacks at all.

It is a win win situation as the dealer pockets some dough adn you can get a bette deal.

Would be wise to mention about the holdback in your negotiation?
 
Anyone has read "Confessions of a Car Salesman"?

I just started to read it ,is on the net at edmunds.com.
It sounds interesting....
 
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