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napsgear
genezapharmateuticals
domestic-supply
puritysourcelabs
Research Chemical SciencesUGFREAKeudomestic
napsgeargenezapharmateuticals domestic-supplypuritysourcelabsResearch Chemical SciencesUGFREAKeudomestic

BBF project car.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 33117
  • Start date Start date
BodyByFinaplix said:
I plan on running 1 3/4" to 17/8" steeped headers, with 3" true dual x-pipes.

If one wants to run uncaped in this type of application you do not pull a lever, you get electric cutouts. You press a button to open them up.

pull lever, push button, it's the same effect.
 
BodyByFinaplix said:
I plan on running 1 3/4" to 17/8" steeped headers, with 3" true dual x-pipes.

If one wants to run uncaped in this type of application you do not pull a lever, you get electric cutouts. You press a button to open them up.

you got this all figured out then.
 
crak600 said:
pull lever, push button, it's the same effect.
A lever requires cutting more holes in the body, could add several more lbs to the FRONT of the car (never do this unless necissary) and could require mroe time to open when already dialing in changins in the fuel curve and timing in the computer in a hurry when another car pulls up next to you at a light at revs his engine at you.
 
why a 3spd OD trans? would a 4spd OD trans suit your needs better or is it not strong enough?

i'm assuming you don't want a manual so you don't blow through clutches and the fact that for consistant times in the 1/4 an auto is better than a manual.
 
crak600 said:
why a 3spd OD trans? would a 4spd OD trans suit your needs better or is it not strong enough?

i'm assuming you don't want a manual so you don't blow through clutches and the fact that for consistant times in the 1/4 an auto is better than a manual.

It is a 4 spd od (4l60e was already stated). You do not use 4th for hard acceleration in these, thus 3rd gear is your highest gear for drag racing.

Manuals (unless you use a linco which a good one runs at least $5K and are not very streetable) cannot compete with autos in the 1/4th and are require more work to drive.

...of course your point about the clutch is valid... manuals require more upkeep and exploding clutches every 9th or 10th pass can lose you a lot of races and $$$.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
UA_Iron said:
very nice. some big heads damn

Actuallly the ports on teh 205 cc afr are teh same size as factory. They flow 30% more though, and the set sent to C.A.R.B. for testing to be 50 state emissions approved came back showing (by this government agency) a 3% reduction in total emissions and a 2% increase in gas milage over stock heads.

They have no negative effect on low end power, but when bolted to an unmodified ls-1 shortblock (347 ci) using a very mild smooth idle cam and a good intake it pulled 530 hp and 475 ft/Ibs of torque.

Not a bit head, but a very solid foundation for a streetable ls-1. However there are some things that need to be done to them, especially in the way of improving thermal efficency. Why so many guys THINKthey can make maximal horsepower with aluminum heads right out of the box just because they flow well, is beyond me.
 
BodyByFinaplix said:
It is a 4 spd od (4l60e was already stated). You do not use 4th for hard acceleration in these, thus 3rd gear is your highest gear for drag racing.

Manuals (unless you use a linco which a good one runs at least $5K and are not very streetable) cannot compete with autos in the 1/4th and are require more work to drive.

...of course your point about the clutch is valid... manuals require more upkeep and exploding clutches every 9th or 10th pass can lose you a lot of races and $$$.

you said something about dropping out of OD into 3rd which led me to believe you were going to use a 3spd OD trans.

could 4th gear handle the acceleration at the end of the 1/4 mile if your rear end gearing was very steep for drag strip passes?

another valid point for not using a manual....buddy's Chevelle had a 4spd when he bought it. he isn't the greatest stick shift driver in the world (although he won't admit it) and his extra aggressiveness on the clutch was probably what got the 12 bolt rear to start twisting. was a bored 350, nothing overly radical, but it was a worked engine.
 
I know a little someting about ls1's so shout me a PM if you need some info, and who to talk to.
As Far as 600 Hp, 20mpg, and normal sounding. GOOD LUCK

Not to be an ass, but if your doing natural asperation, your going to have to go with an insane heads/cam setup, with which is going to have a huge lope and sound like a fucking race car.

Also, depending on what you want to do with the car, look into getting a formula and not a TA, that way you can get a hard top, and race it on the track, have it a little stiffer than a t-tops car, unless you are just doing quarter mile passes and street racing.
 
holy crap, BBF is pretty car knowledgable.

I should ditch chasing women, and start learning how to fix up cars.
 
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