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Hiatussin
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A Correct suit
From Underwear to cufflink- I´d say
underwear.
Black thin smooth socks
-All socks should be at least as dark as the pants they go with and have only one color. They should be long enough, you shouldn´t show leg when for some reason the pant slides up a few inches.
white or black boxer briefs
regular undies are lame, loose boxers too boyish.
Buttoned down shirt. This is an important part.
-Thicker, stiffer fabrics usually look better and crumple less easily. Easier to iron too.
-Get one that does not have the little buttons that attaches the collar to the front. They developed when people started to use too shitty fabrics that wouldn´t stay in place. it looks nerdy.
-The length of the shirt itself should be enough so that it doesn´t get out out of your pants when you duck or something.
-Preferably get one without a chest pocket, although these are going rare. They should never be used, especially not to hold a pack of cigarettes, or a pen. no class. Tailored ones dont have these.
-If you close the top button (which is only when wearing a tie) the collar should be just loose enough that you can do so without discomfort, no looser.
-The sleeves need to be the right length. this means, when letting the arms hang down, over the wrist, covering a small part of the hand.
-There are 3 types of cuffs. They´re the stiffer part of the shirt at the end of the sleeve.
1 The cuff thats not folded, with only one side with a hole in it, and a button on the other side. or two holes and two buttons. You can´t wear cufflinks with these since these go through a hole in both sides. I don´t recommend them for a formal outfit, they are more for a semi-formal/classy look, worn without a jacket.
2 The single ply/not folded cuff that has buttons AND a hole on one side and a hole on the other side. You can use these just like the first kind, or you can cut the buttons off (be careful to only cut the stitches and not the fabric) and wear them with cufflinks. Remember that cufflinks dont link the sides overlapping one another, but lying atop one another.
3 The BEST shirts have cuffs that fold back one time and have no buttons. They are large in result of this. So the whole thing folds back and then both sides are linked atop one another with the cufflink on the pinky side of the hand. So it goes through 4 holes altogether. I strongly recommend these, although you can get away with a shirt of the second variety of a good quality.
http://www.concept-websites.co.uk/cufflinks.jpg (btw i find these cufflinks ugly, but im talking about the cuff itself here)
Where the shoulders meet the sleeves and where the back meets the neck there are stitched in folds to make them fit. These make the production process more expensive, the more of them the closer the fit. Question is however if they always make it look better.
Avoid the silly strap where the back meets the shoulder/neckpiece, although it is usually respectfully done in the same colour. Since dress shirts are worn ironed it serves no purpose. you shouldn´t hang it by its back, only on a clothhanger.
Don´t get a shirt with too many damn patterns on it, not too busy, one colour is fine, some lines is fine, but a whole fucking Mondriaan painting is a look killer
pant
Color- In this case black
Fabric - nobody cares, so long as its the ! identical ! fabric to the jacket.
one of mine says: 60% Pure Wool, 38% Polyester... The 2 percent is mystery hehe. probably the fly.
Model- Whatever, just needs a fold in the front middle of the trunks and a high waist.
Width- Just, but I repeat just wide enough not to fall off your ass
Length - When standing straight up with no shoes on, the back of the pants should just touch the floor. just.
Belt rings - They should not stand out too much. Personally I like pants without them, to be worn with suspenders. These are usually tailored though and theres no shame in wearing a normal pant with suspenders.
A belt is fine too, but never both at the same time!
choose a belt with a smooth, classy buckle, but not a too big one. This isn´t a western.
jacket
The jacket should reach exactly all the way over the ass in the back and just slightly less far down the arms than the shirt.
It should have 3 buttons. Some say keep the top one open others say close all three and yet others say close the bottom one. Whatever. Do as you please, just open them all when sitting down, and close at least 2 when up.
It will have shoulder pads and if you work out your actual shoulders might be wider than those. that looks bad. Get a big enough jacket.
Always fold the jackets collar down and wear it in such a way that it doesnt cover the shirts collar, but doesnt show the shirts collars bottom edge either.
Make sure the arms are big enough. You look lame if they tighten when you bend your arms.
this may lead to you needing a confection size jacket that has room for a big gut you dont have. Three options- look hard enough- get it tailored and pay $ - live with it.
same fabric and color as pants.
Shoes
Leather soles
wooden or rubber heels
Smooth black leather
well polished
thin black shoelaces
tie
http://www.butlersguild.com/images5/ties1.gif
practise practise practise!
There should be no visible folds
The knot should be so wide as that it reaches both sides of the collar.
The tip of the tie should rest right on the beltbuckle, or where that would be,
if you wear suspenders.
fold the collar of your shirt over the tie so that it does not show anywhere except in front.
Practise tying it! more important than the quality of the thing
as for that-
Thicker is usually better, as is smoother/shinier, except when they are wool. Men who wear woollen ties have balls the size of grapefruits.
Cufflinks
Dont get ones with multiple colours. one colour for a pair of cufflinks.
Match them with your watch, possible belt buckle and possible metal jacketbuttons. Gold with gold silver with silver (or coloured such)
I personally prefer simple models.
From Underwear to cufflink- I´d say
underwear.
Black thin smooth socks
-All socks should be at least as dark as the pants they go with and have only one color. They should be long enough, you shouldn´t show leg when for some reason the pant slides up a few inches.
white or black boxer briefs
regular undies are lame, loose boxers too boyish.
Buttoned down shirt. This is an important part.
-Thicker, stiffer fabrics usually look better and crumple less easily. Easier to iron too.
-Get one that does not have the little buttons that attaches the collar to the front. They developed when people started to use too shitty fabrics that wouldn´t stay in place. it looks nerdy.
-The length of the shirt itself should be enough so that it doesn´t get out out of your pants when you duck or something.
-Preferably get one without a chest pocket, although these are going rare. They should never be used, especially not to hold a pack of cigarettes, or a pen. no class. Tailored ones dont have these.
-If you close the top button (which is only when wearing a tie) the collar should be just loose enough that you can do so without discomfort, no looser.
-The sleeves need to be the right length. this means, when letting the arms hang down, over the wrist, covering a small part of the hand.
-There are 3 types of cuffs. They´re the stiffer part of the shirt at the end of the sleeve.
1 The cuff thats not folded, with only one side with a hole in it, and a button on the other side. or two holes and two buttons. You can´t wear cufflinks with these since these go through a hole in both sides. I don´t recommend them for a formal outfit, they are more for a semi-formal/classy look, worn without a jacket.
2 The single ply/not folded cuff that has buttons AND a hole on one side and a hole on the other side. You can use these just like the first kind, or you can cut the buttons off (be careful to only cut the stitches and not the fabric) and wear them with cufflinks. Remember that cufflinks dont link the sides overlapping one another, but lying atop one another.
3 The BEST shirts have cuffs that fold back one time and have no buttons. They are large in result of this. So the whole thing folds back and then both sides are linked atop one another with the cufflink on the pinky side of the hand. So it goes through 4 holes altogether. I strongly recommend these, although you can get away with a shirt of the second variety of a good quality.
http://www.concept-websites.co.uk/cufflinks.jpg (btw i find these cufflinks ugly, but im talking about the cuff itself here)
Where the shoulders meet the sleeves and where the back meets the neck there are stitched in folds to make them fit. These make the production process more expensive, the more of them the closer the fit. Question is however if they always make it look better.
Avoid the silly strap where the back meets the shoulder/neckpiece, although it is usually respectfully done in the same colour. Since dress shirts are worn ironed it serves no purpose. you shouldn´t hang it by its back, only on a clothhanger.
Don´t get a shirt with too many damn patterns on it, not too busy, one colour is fine, some lines is fine, but a whole fucking Mondriaan painting is a look killer
pant
Color- In this case black
Fabric - nobody cares, so long as its the ! identical ! fabric to the jacket.
one of mine says: 60% Pure Wool, 38% Polyester... The 2 percent is mystery hehe. probably the fly.
Model- Whatever, just needs a fold in the front middle of the trunks and a high waist.
Width- Just, but I repeat just wide enough not to fall off your ass
Length - When standing straight up with no shoes on, the back of the pants should just touch the floor. just.
Belt rings - They should not stand out too much. Personally I like pants without them, to be worn with suspenders. These are usually tailored though and theres no shame in wearing a normal pant with suspenders.
A belt is fine too, but never both at the same time!
choose a belt with a smooth, classy buckle, but not a too big one. This isn´t a western.
jacket
The jacket should reach exactly all the way over the ass in the back and just slightly less far down the arms than the shirt.
It should have 3 buttons. Some say keep the top one open others say close all three and yet others say close the bottom one. Whatever. Do as you please, just open them all when sitting down, and close at least 2 when up.
It will have shoulder pads and if you work out your actual shoulders might be wider than those. that looks bad. Get a big enough jacket.
Always fold the jackets collar down and wear it in such a way that it doesnt cover the shirts collar, but doesnt show the shirts collars bottom edge either.
Make sure the arms are big enough. You look lame if they tighten when you bend your arms.
this may lead to you needing a confection size jacket that has room for a big gut you dont have. Three options- look hard enough- get it tailored and pay $ - live with it.
same fabric and color as pants.
Shoes
Leather soles
wooden or rubber heels
Smooth black leather
well polished
thin black shoelaces
tie
http://www.butlersguild.com/images5/ties1.gif
practise practise practise!
There should be no visible folds
The knot should be so wide as that it reaches both sides of the collar.
The tip of the tie should rest right on the beltbuckle, or where that would be,
if you wear suspenders.
fold the collar of your shirt over the tie so that it does not show anywhere except in front.
Practise tying it! more important than the quality of the thing
as for that-
Thicker is usually better, as is smoother/shinier, except when they are wool. Men who wear woollen ties have balls the size of grapefruits.
Cufflinks
Dont get ones with multiple colours. one colour for a pair of cufflinks.
Match them with your watch, possible belt buckle and possible metal jacketbuttons. Gold with gold silver with silver (or coloured such)
I personally prefer simple models.
